This sheng bing cha (green puerh cake) from the underappreciated tea mountain He Kai Shan is deliciously fruity, with almost none of the astringency that mars the drinking experience of many sheng puerh. Great to drink now, it will also age well in a mild climate, as the fruitiness concentrates and gains sweetness. Buy two: one to age and the other to taste over time as you appreciate the way the tea's flavor and aroma gradually evolve.

PREPARATION: To prepare sheng bing cha break off a small piece and gently crumble it into a teapot or gaiwan. Quickly rinse the leaves with moderately hot water and appreciate the aroma of the damp leaves. Then infuse in approximately 175-degree water for 1-3 minutes, decant into a pitcher, and serve. This tea will maintain color and flavor through multiple steepings.